Signs to look for
- Drips from the spout when the tap is fully off
- Water seeping round the handle or the base of the tap when it is used
- A tap that has to be turned harder and harder to stop
- Water in the cupboard under the sink, which may be the tap connections rather than the tap
What to do first
Look for the isolating valve
Most taps have a small valve on the pipe underneath. A quarter turn with a flat screwdriver, so the slot sits across the pipe, usually shuts it off. Useful if the drip turns into a run.
Note where the water comes from
Spout, handle, base or underneath. Each points to a different part, and it helps whoever does the repair bring the right parts.
Identify the tap
Photograph the tap and any brand name. Note whether it is a separate hot and cold tap or a mixer, and whether the handle turns several times or just a quarter turn.
Do not overtighten
Cranking the handle harder to stop a drip can damage the internal parts and the seat they close against.
Do not take a tap apart with the water still on. If water is collecting under the sink near sockets or an appliance, unplug the appliance only if the plug and your hands are dry.
Possible causes
These are common causes, not a diagnosis. The actual fault is confirmed on site.
Worn washer or seat
Older taps that turn several times close a rubber washer against a seat. Worn washers drip from the spout, and a damaged seat can keep it dripping after a new washer.
Worn ceramic cartridge
Quarter-turn and mixer taps use cartridges. A worn or scaled cartridge typically drips from the spout and needs the right replacement for that tap.
Worn O-ring or seals
Water seeping round the handle or base while the tap is running usually points to seals rather than the main shut-off.
Limescale
Hard water can stop parts sealing properly and make taps stiff.
Tap connections
Water under the sink may be the flexible hoses or connections, not the tap itself.
How WHP would assess it
- Confirm where the water is escaping and whether it is the tap or the connections below.
- Identify the tap type and whether repair parts are available for it.
- Explain whether a repair or a replacement tap makes more sense before carrying out work.
- Check the isolating valves and connections while we are there.
We explain any call-out or diagnostic charge before booking, and agree the repair and its cost with you before carrying it out.
What affects the price
Every repair is different, so we do not publish fixed prices for this work. These are the things that make the most difference:
- Tap type and whether parts are standard or specific to the brand
- Whether the seat or body is damaged, rather than just a washer or cartridge
- Access to the connections under the sink or basin
- Whether you choose to repair the tap or replace it
Before you call
Useful to send us
- A photo of the tap and any brand marking
- A short video showing where the water comes from
- A photo of the pipework underneath if you can safely see it
- Whether the isolating valve works
Get professional help when
- The drip is getting faster or the tap will not shut off
- Water is collecting under the sink or inside a unit
- The isolating valve is seized or leaking
- You rent the property (tell your landlord or agent first)
Common questions
Is a dripping tap urgent?
A slow drip from the spout is not usually an emergency, but it wastes water and tends to get worse. Water leaking under the sink is more pressing because it can damage the unit and floor unseen.
Should I repair or replace the tap?
If parts are available and the body is sound, a repair is often sensible. If the tap is badly scaled, the seat is damaged or parts are hard to find, replacing it may be better. We will explain the options before doing either.
Sources
Safety and responsibility details checked against these sources on 12 October 2026. Water supplier guidance can change. Check your own supplier’s current advice.